I just received an email where someone was looking for Lumenlab CNC micRo config files. I had to check it out, and apparently Lumenlab has flown the coop. This is a bit disheartening to see.
Many months ago I logged into the forum to see many people asking where the owners of LL had been, and there were no replies from them with an answer. There were only suspicions and guesses as to where they could be. Had they ditched the production at that point?
I know that the micRo router existed because I have a version of it, but apparently there may be others that never received their finished CNC router. I’d really like to know what happened.
If anyone knows more to the story, I’d like you to comment. To be sure, I am clearly in the unknown on this situation other than lumenlab.com does not display. I haven’t contacted Lumenlab in a long time since receiving my router. One thing is for sure, I am on my own with my router if something ever goes wrong.
Further reading: (to include comments)
Sept. 22, 2009 - Waiting on parts to come in can be boring so I went on a dig through my parts bin and found this LED still in its original packaging. While the packaging leaves a lot to be desired, I actually found the datasheet on RS’ website. I played with this LED and some 1k resistors on a breadboard, and now I’m going to make a night light that changes colors. The original program that I wrote lasts about 15 minutes, and it cycles through all of the colors [edit – at least I thought it would). It uses a rough PWM method that I wrote to fade in and out.
After a little math work I decided on using 20mA for all of my colors. They are rated for 30 to 50 mA depending on the color, but with this I can use the output pins on my PIC12F675. This saves a lot of transistors for another project.
I etched my first circuit boards today. I have found that I need better tactics for this to really work. The MDF base that I am using is not working, so I am going to try a poly cutting board, which should have better humidity tolerance. I also believe that taping the circuit board material down will improve the height differences. Using screws on the MDF made the middle of the circuit board material bind causing the router bit to etch more than normal, yet on the edges nothing would be removed.
I am just posting some pictures and video of me drilling and tapping the base of my V3 micRo. There’s really nothing special about it. It doesn’t really matter where you drill and tap your holes as long as it works for you and doesn’t interfere with your work. You could build a skyscraper on your base if you just remember to keep your tooling away from it.
I inserted a 5/16″ drill bit into the spindle and fired it up. The mounds indicate where the holes were drilled.
This topic is specifically related to someone who used their own computer, but it applies also to any micRo bot as the setup is pretty much the same. If you bought the Syncro computer, you can skip the file copying part because Lumenlab already set this up.
You probably would have already opened the box and drooled over the awesomeness of your router before the delivery personnel drove off. The first step is taking everything out of the box and making sure there is no visual damage. Sadly, some damage may be “internal”, and you might not discover it until you’ve scratched your head in the next steps. Have no fear, Lumenlab will help you fix any problems.